In March 2023, as part of my “Food from Africa and of African Descent” series, I collaborated with Jacqueline Greaves (herein Aunty Jacque), a Jamaican cook with a deep love for traditional dishes. Our focus was Ackee and Saltfish, Jamaica’s national dish. However, this experience highlighted more than just culinary similarities. It also demonstrated the close connections between African and Jamaican culinary traditions. As a result of the African legacy that has been passed down through the years, Jamaican cuisine, ingredients, and cooking techniques are strikingly similar to those in West Africa.
A Mistaken Purchase That Turned into a Culinary Insight
The day began with a small misstep, I bought fresh cod instead of traditional saltfish (dried salted cod), a key ingredient in Ackee and Saltfish. But Aunty Jacque adjusted with ease. She demonstrated the inventiveness and resourcefulness that are characteristics of both Jamaican and African cooking by steaming the fresh cod in salted water to simulate the salinity of saltfish.
A greater understanding of the common food preservation methods used in African and Jamaican kitchens resulted from this improvisation. Fish that have been preserved and dried have a significant role in both cultures. While saltfish is commonly used in Jamaica, stockfish is frequently utilised in soups and stews in Nigeria. Long before refrigeration, these African-inherited preservation techniques were crucial, and they still have a significant impact today.
Sautéing Flavors with African and Jamaican Roots
Once the fish was ready, Aunty Jacque sautéed it in coconut oil with a mixture of vegetables—garlic, spring onions, white onions, parsley stems, and cherry tomatoes. The dish came alive with the addition of Scotch bonnet pepper, a favourite in both Jamaican and Nigerian cuisines. This pepper, known as Ata Rodo in Nigeria, adds a fiery yet flavourful heat to stews, sauces, and other dishes. The spice’s presence in both cultures is yet another link between Jamaica and Africa.
When the vegetables and fish were well sautéed, Aunty Jacque added canned ackee, gently folding it into the mix. Although it is now a staple of Jamaican cooking, ackee comes originally from West Africa. During the transatlantic slave trade, the fruit travelled to the Caribbean with the enslaved Africans, who also carried their culinary customs and knowledge. Even though ackee isn’t used much in West African cooking anymore, it’s interesting to think about how it got into Jamaican kitchens and came to represent the nation’s cuisine.
A familiar and cosy dish was produced by combining the saltfish with the creamy texture of ackee. It made me think of the basic yet flavourful scrambled eggs with tomatoes, onions, and peppers that are frequently consumed in Nigerian homes. Despite being separated by centuries and oceans, these minor parallels between Jamaican and Nigerian cookery highlight how closely related our foodways are.
Nigerian Yams and Plantains: A Shared Heritage
We made roasted plantains and yams in addition to the Ackee and Saltfish. Aunty Jacque peeled, coarsely sliced, and seasoned the Nigerian yams I had brought to the supper with salt, coconut oil, and a little Scotch bonnet pepper powder. After that, we roast the yams, providing a straightforward but tasty side dish. Yams are a mainstay in both Jamaica and Nigeria, demonstrating the significance of root vegetables in African and Caribbean diets. Jamaicans use starchy vegetables in ways that are quite similar to Nigerian yam recipes, such as yam pottage or pounded yam.
Another common component, plantains, was likewise prepared in a way that was well-known in both cultures. Before grilling the plantains, Jacqueline coated them with a mixture of jerk spice, coconut oil, salt, and brown sugar. Plantains are usually roasted into Boli or fried into Dodo in Nigeria. This spicy and sweet take on plantains makes me think of the several ways we eat them in West Africa, which is another example of how African cooking methods are being used in Jamaica.
African Techniques Embedded in Jamaican Cooking
Our meal’s utilisation of spices, herbs, and coconut oil was also noteworthy. Aunty Jacque used coconut oil to enhance the flavour of the Chocho (a Jamaican fruit that resembles a squash) while sautéing it with herbs and veggies. This is similar to how we cook greens in Nigeria, where they are frequently sautéed in coconut or palm oil to enhance their flavour. African forefathers modified their methods in the New World, utilising local ingredients while maintaining their culinary traditions, as evidenced by the similarities between Jamaican and African cooking skills.
African culinary traditions that have endured over the years are reflected in Jamaican food. The impact of Africa is evident even though Jamaica has created its own unique culinary tradition. We can see the utilisation of Similar West African cooking methods such as the use of, marinating, grilling, and making spice rubs such as Jamaica’s well-known jerk seasoning. These common customs serve as a reminder of the African people’s inventiveness and tenacity in bringing their culinary culture over the Atlantic and establishing the Caribbean cuisine.
A Culinary Celebration of African Legacy
The richness of the Ackee and Saltfish, together with the roasted yams and plantains, presented a tale of shared history as we sat down to eat while also enjoying a bottle of Franciacorta, an Italian sparkling wine. Resilience, inventiveness, and a strong bond with the soil are the cornerstones of both Nigerian and Jamaican cuisine.
I was reminded of how food binds us to our history and to each other with each bite. A stunning illustration of the persistence of customs that withstood the transatlantic slave trade is the African influence on Jamaican food. While Jamaican cuisine has evolved, its roots remain firmly planted in the soil of West Africa, offering a delicious link to the past, and a celebration of African culinary heritage.
No Recipe Recipe: Ackee and Saltfish with Roasted Yams and Plantains
A “no recipe recipe” is a casual guide that gives you the freedom to improvise and adapt based on what you have on hand, without strict measurements.
Ingredients (no exact measurements required):
- Fresh cod (or traditional saltfish)
- Coconut oil
- A mix of vegetables: garlic, onions (white or green), parsley, cherry tomatoes
- Scotch bonnet pepper or pepper flakes (adjust to taste)
- Canned ackee
- Nigerian yams
- Ripe plantains
- Salt, pepper, jerk seasoning, brown sugar
Instructions:
- If using fresh cod, cut it into bite-sized pieces, then steam it in well-salted water to mimic the taste of saltfish. Set aside.
- In a pan, heat a generous amount of coconut oil. Add chopped garlic, onions, parsley stems, and cherry tomatoes. Sauté until softened.
- Add the prepared fish to the pan and season with Scotch bonnet, salt, and pepper. Let everything simmer and soak up the flavours.
- Open the can of ackee, drain, and rinse. Gently fold the ackee into the fish and vegetable mixture, being careful not to break it up too much. Heat through, then add a sprinkle of fresh parsley and spring onions for garnish.
- For the sides, peel and roughly chop Nigerian yams. Coat with coconut oil, salt, and a touch of Scotch bonnet powder. Roast in the oven until golden brown.
- Peel the plantains, make light indentations, then rub them with coconut oil, salt, brown sugar, and jerk seasoning. Roast alongside the yams until caramelized and tender.
- Serve the Ackee and Saltfish with the roasted yams and plantains. Enjoy!
This “no recipe recipe” is all about going with the flow, using what you have, and adjusting to your taste preferences. Just like in traditional African and Jamaican cooking, it’s about improvising and creating something delicious with simple, flavorful ingredients.
Ackee and Saltfish with Roasted Yam and Plantains (No Recipe Recipe)
Ingredients
- Fresh cod or traditional saltfish
- Coconut oil
- A mix of vegetables: garlic onions (white or green), parsley, cherry tomatoes
- Scotch bonnet pepper or pepper flakes adjust to taste
- Canned ackee
- Nigerian yams
- Ripe plantains
- Salt pepper, jerk seasoning, brown sugar
Instructions
- If using fresh cod, cut it into bite-sized pieces, then steam it in well-salted water to mimic the taste of saltfish. Set aside.
- In a pan, heat a generous amount of coconut oil. Add chopped garlic, onions, parsley stems, and cherry tomatoes. Sauté until softened.
- Add the prepared fish to the pan and season with Scotch bonnet, salt, and pepper. Let everything simmer and soak up the flavours.
- Open the can of ackee, drain, and rinse. Gently fold the ackee into the fish and vegetable mixture, being careful not to break it up too much. Heat through, then add a sprinkle of fresh parsley and spring onions for garnish.
- For the sides, peel and roughly chop Nigerian yams. Coat with coconut oil, salt, and a touch of Scotch bonnet powder. Roast in the oven until golden brown.
- Peel the plantains, make light indentations, then rub them with coconut oil, salt, brown sugar, and jerk seasoning. Roast alongside the yams until caramelised and tender.
- Serve the Ackee and Saltfish with the roasted yams and plantains. Enjoy!
